外传之巴拿马运河

现在是1805年

而你是个纽约人

It’s

1850

a

d

you’

e

a

New

Yo

ke

hea

i

g

你听说在西海岸有那可爱的金矿

about

that

sweet

sweet

gold

o

the

west

coast.

你现在有三条路线可以走

You’ve

th

ee

optio

s

骑着骡子横跨美国

Ac

oss

the

cou

t

y

by

mule,

航行环过合恩角

sail

a

ou

d

Cape

Ho

,

或者乘船到巴拿马并穿过丛林

o

a

boat

to

Pa

ama

t

ek

th

ough

the

ju

gle

再乘船就到了大陆的另一端

a

d

hop

o

a

othe

the

othe

side.

一切顺利的话

两个月内你就可以到加州的迪斯尼乐园了

All

goi

g

well,

you’ll

be

at

Dis

eyla

d

withi

two

mo

ths.

但由于巴拿马极度危险

But

the

Pa

ama

t

ack

was

i

c

edibly

deadly,

因此在修建铁路时使用了大量爱尔兰以及中国劳工

so

usi

g

I

ish

a

d

Chi

ese

labo

e

s

the

Pa

ama

ail

oad

was

built.

在建成后的头十年里就有五十万人穿过

Half

a

millio

people

t

aveled

it

i

the

fi

st

te

yea

s.

它立刻变成了美国邮电业的主干道

It

became

a

majo

a

te

y

fo

the

US

Postal

Se

vice

并且很快就就成为了纽约证券交易所的头股

a

d

was

soo

the

highest-p

iced

stock

o

the

New

Yo

k

excha

ge.

跨陆航行是个大生意

T

a

sco

ti

e

tal

t

avel

was

big

busi

ess.

而五十英里的陆地成为了大西洋和太平洋的唯一阻隔

50

miles

of

la

d

was

the

o

ly

thi

g

stoppi

g

the

Atla

tic

fo

meeti

g

the

Pacific.

在货物贸易之后

随之而来的是政治和权力

A

d

all

the

t

ade,

politics

a

d

powe

that

came

with

it.

法国人的尝试

F

e

ch

Attempt

在苏伊士运河建成后

雷赛布作为欧洲的英雄凯旋

Afte

completi

g

the

Suez

Fe

di

a

d

de

Lesseps

etu

ed

to

Eu

ope

a

he

o.

他将欧洲与印度的距离缩短了6000英里并让非洲变成了一个岛

He’d

b

ought

I

dia

6,000

miles

close

a

d

made

Af

ica

a

isla

d.

在伦敦

3万人前来祝贺这位法国人

30,000

people

came

out

to

co

g

atulate

the

F

e

chma

,

i

Lo

do

.

在巴黎

皇室成员接待了他

His

eceptio

i

Pa

is

was

o

e

of

oyalty.

他还交了几个新朋友

有凡尔纳

雨果以及埃菲尔

His

ew

f

ie

ds

i

cluded

Jules

Ve

e

Victo

Hugo

a

d

Gustave

Eiffel.

因此当他宣布他的下一个目标是打穿中美洲时

So

whe

he

a

ou

ced

his

ext

p

oject

was

to

cut

几乎没有人质疑他

th

ough

Ce

t

al

Ame

ica

few

people

doubted

him.

在这之前

美国人已经对这里做了调查

The

Ame

ica

s

had

al

eady

do

e

su

veys

of

the

a

ea

决定在尼加拉瓜建立水闸控制系统

a

d

we

e

co

vi

ced

of

a

lock

system

at

Nica

agua.

然而

雷赛布却决定在巴拿马建造一条与海水齐平的运河

Howeve

de

Lesseps

was

set

o

a

sea-level

at

Pa

ama.

因为这是最短的路径

It

was

the

sho

test

oute,

a

d

that’s

all

that

matte

ed.

但在巴拿马有高山

急流

丛林

火山岩

But

Pa

ama

had

mou

tai

s,

ive

s,

ju

gles,

volca

ic

ock,

以及分水岭

瘴气

黄热病

美洲虎和毒蛇

a

co

ti

e

tal

divide,

mala

ia,

yellow

feve

,

jagua

s,

s

akes,

并且严格来说

这里仍然属于哥伦比亚

a

d

was

still

tech

ically

a

egio

of

Colombia.

法国工程师戈丹表示

Godi

de

Lépi

ay,

the

F

e

ch

e

gi

ee

poi

ted

out

苏伊士是因其平坦的荒漠而易于施工

that

Suez

have

bee

easy

fo

de

Lesseps

because

it

was

a

flat

dese

t.

而在巴拿马使查格雷斯河改道几乎是不可能的

Re-

outi

g

the

Chag

es

Rive

i

Pa

ama

would

be

a

impossible

task.

因此他建议用人工湖和水闸将陆地打穿

He

suggested

b

idgi

g

the

la

d

with

a

tificial

lakes

a

d

locks.

大家都不屑一顾

Eve

yo

e

laughed.

这时

万人敬仰的雷赛布发话了

The

all

espected

de

Lesseps

had

spoke

.

运河将与海水齐平

It

would

be

at

sea

level.

然后

一个国际会议就此召开

将决定最后的方案

A

i

te

atio

al

co

fe

e

ce

was

held

to

decide

the

fi

al

oute.

除了几个去过巴拿马的工程师

Eve

yo

e

but

the

few

e

gi

ee

s

who

had

actually

其余所有人都赞同雷赛布的方案

bee

to

Pa

ama

voted

with

de

Lesseps.

一个法国公司就此成立

A

F

e

ch

compa

y

was

set

up,

他们使用加勒比和印第安工人

they

bought

the

ail

oad

a

d

修建了铁路

ag

eed

to

give

Colombia

5

%

of

a

y

eve

ue.

并同意给哥伦比亚政府其5%的总收益

Usi

g

Ca

ibbea

a

d

I

dia

wo

ke

s

1881年

河道两旁的丛林开始被砍掉

the

ju

gle

bega

to

be

chopped

back

i

1881.

巴拿马每年的降水量可达3000毫米

A

ual

ai

fall

i

Pa

ama

could

be

th

ee

mete

s,

因此很快任务的艰巨也开始显现出来

soo

the

mo

ume

tal

scale

of

the

task

became

appa

e

t.

风暴后的塌方意味着所有的进程都将白费

Mudslides

mea

t

a

y

p

og

ess

would

be

u

do

e

afte

the

ext

big

sto

m.

因此

为了防止运河墙下滑

To

stop

the

walls

f

om

slidi

g

i

,

必须削减1到4个坡度

a

ew

slope

of

o

e

to

fou

had

to

be

cut.

这将会使挖掘工程量翻倍

Doubli

g

the

amou

t

of

excavatio

.

而在运河两岸的两个最高点

At

the

highest

poi

t

alo

g

the

它们间的距离将扩展到四分之三英里

the

ew

width

would

have

to

be

th

ee-qua

te

s

of

a

mile.

劳工的装备则只有砍刀和镐

Labo

e

s

we

e

a

med

with

othi

g

but

a

machete

a

d

a

pickaxe.

有时每天就能有40个人死亡

The

death

toll

was

at

times

40

a

day.

在沼泽地区这样的非人道条件下

黄热病和疟疾像野火一样蔓延

Yellow

feve

a

d

mala

ia

sp

ead

like

wildfi

e

i

the

swampy

i

huma

e

co

ditio

s.

那些黑人劳工的尸体

Bodies

of

black

wo

ke

s

will

ofte

just

olled

被当作垃圾从他们死的地方被扔到垃圾场

f

om

whe

e

they

died

i

to

the

dumpi

g

g

ou

ds.

人们有时也会谈到那艘从加勒比海来的鬼船

People

spoke

of

ghost

ships

a

ivi

g

f

om

the

Ca

ibbea

,

船员在到达巴拿马之前就都死了

the

c

ew

dead

eve

befo

e

eachi

g

Pa

ama.

1889年

法国公司破产

工程也不得不暂停

I

1889

the

F

e

ch

compa

y

we

t

ba

k

upt

a

d

wo

k

came

to

a

halt.

有80万的投资者赔光了他们的钱

2万3千人在此丧命

800,000

i

vesto

s

lost

thei

mo

ey

a

d

23,000

people

thei

lives.

美国人的努力

US

Effo

t

运河一直无人敢动

The

sat

u

touched

u

til

直到十年后罗斯福成功当选

Theodo

e

Roosevelt

was

elected

a

decade

late

.

他确信如果美国海军要快速进入太平洋的话

He

was

co

vi

ced

the

US

Navy

eeded

quick

access

to

the

Pacific

Ocea

运河是必经之路

a

d

a

would

be

the

o

ly

way.

因此关于是在巴拿马还是尼加拉瓜的论辩又再次被提及

So

the

Pa

ama

ve

sus

Nica

agua

debate

esu

faced,

巴拿马又一次赢了

Pa

ama

wi

i

g

agai

.

如果不是因为法国人先前的尝试

Though

eve

had

’t

bee

fo

the

F

e

ch

attempt.

很可能今天运河就会在尼加拉瓜了

It’s

likely

the

today

would

be

at

Nica

agua.

但是许多工作都已经开始了

but

a

lot

of

the

wo

k

was

al

eady

sta

ted

并且年轻有雄心的美国无法抗拒

a

d

the

you

g

ambitious

Ame

ica

could

’t

esist

i

succeedi

g

在强大的法兰西失败的地方取得成功

whe

e

the

mighty

F

e

ch

Empi

e

had

failed.

一个小问题是

The

slight

p

oblem

was

that

巴拿马是为哥伦比亚所有的一个地区

Pa

ama

was

a

egio

of

a

d

ow

ed

by

Colombia.

但是美国政府拒绝签订任何

But

the

US

efused

to

sig

a

y

t

eaty

whe

e

they

他们对运河没有完全主权的条约

did

’t

have

complete

sove

eig

ty

ove

the

zo

e,

a

d

而哥伦比亚也不愿放弃该地区

Colombia

we

e

’t

willi

g

to

give

that

up.

1903年

哥伦比亚陷入政治动荡

I

1903

Colombia

was

i

political

u

est

因此

美国政府就直接和巴拿马谈了

so

the

US

tu

ed

to

Pa

ama

di

ectly…

嘿

巴拿马

你想独立吗

Psssttt…

Pa

ama!

Do

you

wa

a

be

a

ew

cou

t

y?

如果你们要闹革命

If

you

we

e

to

have

a

evolutio

我们不会

不用我们的军舰保护你们

/调皮微笑

We

would

’t

ot

p

otect

you

with

ou

massive

wa

ships

;

)

嗯

好吧

Yeah,

su

e.

巴拿马与美国签订了条约并承诺

A

d

Pa

ama

sig

ed

a

t

eaty

givi

g

Ame

ica

total

co

t

ol

在独立后会将运河的控制权交给美国

ove

the

o

ce

they

became

i

depe

de

t.

许多人对美国干预巴拿马的做法并不满意

A

lot

of

people

we

e

’t

happy

with

the

US

因此罗斯福让检察长诺克斯

i

te

ve

tio

at

Pa

ama,

so

Roosevelt

asked

Atto

ey

Ge

e

al

做出了如下辩护

K

ox

to

fo

m

a

legal

defe

se.

“亲爱的总统阁下

不要因为这么一点的不合法

“Ah

M

.

P

eside

t,

do

ot

let

so

g

eat

a

achieveme

t

让如此之大伟大的功绩无法服务于大众”

suffe

f

om

a

y

tai

t

of

legality”

1904年

工程开始

I

1904

wo

k

bega

.

以约瑟夫和诺贝尔为主导的美国计划

The

US

pla

by

Joseph

Ripley

a

d

Alf

ed

Noble

would

be

a

adaptatio

改进于25年前的戈丹方案

of

de

Lépi

ay’s

f

om

25

yea

s

ea

lie

.

他们在两端沿海修了许多水闸

A

se

ies

of

locks

o

eithe

ocea

将船舶提升到海拔26米

to

aise

ships

26

mete

s

above

sea

level.

然后在查格雷斯河上筑堤

让其淹没巴拿马中部的大片区域

A

d

the

dam

the

Chag

es

ive

to

flood

huge

a

eas

of

ce

t

al

Pa

ama.

164平方英里的丛林

城镇和铁路消失在了水下

164

squa

e

miles

of

ju

gle,

tow

a

d

ail

oad

would

be

lost

u

de

wate

.

加顿湖就此诞生

而查格雷斯河

C

eati

g

Gattu

lake.

The

Chag

es

Rive

,

so

本来是海平面通道的障碍

difficult

a

d

obstacle

fo

a

sea-level

passage,

would

现在变成了锁渠的生命线

become

the

lifeli

e

of

the

lock

–

feedi

g

其水源源不断地流进锁渠

it

with

a

co

sta

t

wate

supply.

但其所需的工程量仍然是巨大的

Yet

the

e

gi

ee

i

g

equi

ed

would

still

be

imme

se.

工程仍需穿过库莱布拉山脉

The

Culeb

a

mou

tai

s

must

still

be

cut

th

ough.

而就像其巨大的水闸一样

加通大坝

Gatu

dam

would

have

to

be

o

e

of

the

la

gest

i

the

wo

ld.

也成为了世界上最大的大坝之一

As

would

the

locks

themselves.

1906年

罗斯福参观此地

并成为了美国历史上

Roosevelt

himself

visited

i

1906

becomi

g

the

fi

st

第一位在位期间离开本国的总统

p

eside

t

to

leave

the

cou

t

y

while

i

office.

没有镐和铲子

美国人带来的是炸药

Not

esig

ed

to

pickaxe

a

d

shovel

the

Ame

ica

s

b

ought

dy

amite

with

them.

这项工程不是单纯的挖掘

它还包括土的运输

The

p

oject

became

ot

o

e

of

diggi

g

but

of

Ea

th

emoval.

这就意味着数英里持续不断的铁路运输

A

d

this

mea

t

miles

a

d

miles

of

co

ti

uously

movi

g

ail

oads.

卫生保健

住宿以及食物在这里也都有提供

Health

ca

e,

accommodatio

a

d

food

we

e

all

p

ovided

fo

.

政府运营旅馆商店获取的稳定利润

Gove

me

t

u

hotels

a

d

shops

we

e

maki

g

a

steady

p

ofit,

while

也都被用来补贴运河工人的费用

subsidizi

g

the

expe

ses

of

wo

ke

s.

国内的报纸警告说

Pape

s

back

home

wa

ed

那些向社会主义发展的美国人

of

the

political

th

eat

these

people

would

be

whe

they

etu

ed.

回国后将面临政治威胁

Ame

ica

s

who

had

th

ived

i

to

sociali

但如果你去巴拿马寻找社会主义的乌托邦

But

if

you’d

go

e

to

Pa

ama

looki

g

fo

a

socialist

utopia.

那你可能会失望

You’d

have

bee

disappoi

ted.

因为那里并没有所谓的共享所有权和民主

The

e

was

o

sha

ed

ow

e

ship

o

democ

acy

i

actio

.

而且你最好是个白人

A

d

you’d

bette

have

bee

white.

因为种族隔离仍然存在于各行各业

Because

seg

egatio

still

existed

i

all

walks

of

life.

据估算

A

estimated

有20万人从加勒比海迁移过来

200,000

people

mig

ated

f

om

the

Ca

ibbea

,

他们充当了绝大多数的劳工

maki

g

up

the

vast

majo

ity

of

the

wo

kfo

ce.

提供给黑人劳工的是糟糕的食宿条

件

Black

wo

ke

s

we

e

give

appalli

g

food

a

d

accommodatio

,

if

a

y

at

all.

单身汉往往居住在沿着运河线改装的棚车里

Si

gle

me

ofte

lived

i

co

ve

ted

boxca

s

alo

g

the

c：没有li

e,

而有家庭的人也不得不在巴拿马城

或科隆

a

d

families

we

e

fo

ced

to

fe

d

fo

themselves

抑或在丛林中自生自灭

i

Colo

,

Pa

ama

City

o

the

ju

gle.

尽管医疗安全取得了一定进展

Despite

all

the

medical

a

d

safety

adva

ceme

ts

但黑人劳工的死亡率

made

a

black

wo

ke

was

fou

times

仍然是白人劳工的四倍

mo

e

likely

to

die

tha

a

white

wo

ke

.

他们往往是被掉落的岩石砸到

或被卷入机器中

Bei

g

st

uck

by

falli

g

ock

caught

i

machi

e

y

o

还有的是被炸药炸得四分五裂

blow

apa

t

by

dy

amite.

花费了33年

移走了1.8亿立方米的土块

33

yea

s,

180

millio

cubic

mete

s

成立了一个新国家

of

ea

th,

a

ew

cou

t

y

a

d

和失去了2万7千人的生命

27,000

lives

late

.

运河最终完工了

The

was

fi

ished.

1914年8月3日

It’s

completio

book

ma

ked

the

e

d

克里斯托瓦尔号首次完成跨洋航行

of

a

global

e

a,

o

August

the

3

d

1914,

这也标志着一个全球时代的结束

the

C

istobal

made

the

fi

st

ocea

to

ocea

c

ossi

g.

但在巴拿马并没有大张旗鼓的庆祝

But

the

e

was

o

fa

fa

e

o

celeb

atio

i

Pa

ama

就在那天夜幕降临的时候

As

ight

fell

that

same

day,

半个地球之外

half

a

(

ow

slightly)

wo

ld

away

德国向法国宣战了

Ge

ma

y

decla

ed

wa

o

F

a

ce.

而贸易

政治和权力也再也不会是之前那样了

T

ade,

politics,

a

d

powe

would

eve

be

the

same

agai

.

1914年之后

Post

1914

在随后的一些年里

它已经变成了全球航行的生命线

I

the

comi

g

yea

s

it

became

a

lifeli

e

of

global

t

avel.

有5%的全球贸易都要穿过这里

5%

of

all

wo

ld

t

ade

passes

th

ough

the

而其政治和金融的重要性

It’s

political

a

d

fi

a

cial

更是难以估计

impo

ta

ce

became

ha

d

to

ove

estimate.

美国与巴拿马之间的关系也越来越紧张

Te

sio

s

betwee

the

US

a

d

Pa

ama

co

ti

ued

to

ise.

巴拿马人认为运河的控制权应当属于他们

Pa

ama

ia

s

believed

that

co

t

ol

of

the

was

ightfully

thei

s.

在美国向英法施加压力

Afte

the

US

p

essu

ed

the

UK

a

d

F

a

ce

让其放弃对苏伊士的主权后

to

give

up

thei

claim

to

Suez,

巴拿马人更是把他们看作伪君子

ma

y

i

Pa

ama

saw

this

as

hypoc

itical.

在整个六十年代都充斥着骚乱和死亡

The

e

we

e

iots

a

d

deaths

th

oughout

the

sixties,

这给美国带来了巨大的国际压力

buildi

g

i

te

atio

al

p

essu

e

o

the

US.

1977年

卡特签署了一项条约

I

1977

Jimmy

Ca

te

sig

ed

a

t

eaty

g

a

ti

g

Pa

ama

只要运河保持永久中立

futu

e

ow

e

ship

a

d

co

t

ol

of

the,

as

他们将授予巴拿马对运河的所有权

lo

g

as

it

emai

ed

i

eut

al

wate

way.

卡特：“对于在1903年起草的巴拿马运河条约

Ca

te

:”You

ow

st

o

g

feeli

gs

about

the

Pa

ama

T

eaty

of

1903.”

你们的不满情绪

“D

afted

i

a

wo

ld

so

diffe

e

t

f

om

ou

s

today.”

已经成为改善拉美关系的障碍”

“Has

become

a

obstacle

to

bette

elatio

s

with

Lati

Ame

ica.”

在1989年美国推翻将军诺列加之后

Afte

a

quick

US

i

vasio

i

’89

to

ove

th

ow

ge

e

al

No

iega.

20世纪的最后一天

The

Pa

ama

巴拿马运河

officially

became

the

p

ope

ty

of

Pa

ama,

终于正式回到了祖国的怀抱

o

the

last

day

of

the

20th

ce

tu

y.

但是到那时

But

by

the

it

had

sta

ted

to

become

mo

e

建造比运河更大的货船航行环过合恩角

eco

omical

to

build

ships

la

ge

tha

the

a

d

则变得更加经济划算

sta

t

saili

g

a

ou

d

Cape

Ho

agai

.

2007年

巴拿马开始扩展运河

I

2007

Pa

ama

bega

expa

sio

of

thei

two

两套新水闸在与旧水闸平行处拔地而起

ew

sets

of

locks

we

e

built

pa

allel

to

the

old

o

es,

增加了它的最大规模和容量

i

c

easi

g

the

maximum

size

a

d

capacity.

扩展本身就是一个耗资巨大的项目

The

expa

sio

itself

was

a

massive

p

oject,

几乎花费了和美国一样长的时间

taki

g

almost

as

lo

g

as

the

Ame

ica

s

did.

因此是谁建造的运河这个问题变得复杂起来

So

the

issue

of

who

built

the

is

complicated.

美国雇用爱尔兰和中国劳工修建了铁路

It

was

the

US

that

built

the

ail

oads

with

I

ish

a

d

Chi

ese

wo

ke

s.

法国人雇用印第安和牙买加人挖了5000万立方米的岩石

The

F

e

ch

excavated

50

millio

cubic

mete

s

of

ock

with

I

dia

s

a

d

Jamaica

s.

美国雇用加勒比和中美洲工人完成了该项目

The

US

fi

ished

the

p

oject

usi

g

Ca

ibbea

a

d

Ce

t

al

Ame

ica

wo

ke

s.

然而

你今天实际看到的大部分运河[基础设施]都是由巴拿马人建造的

Yet

most

of

the

[i

f

ast

uctu

e]

you

actually

see

today

was

built

by

Pa

ama

ia

s.

它往往被认为是一个国家的成就

Yet

it

would

be

emembe

ed

as

the

achieveme

t

of

a

si

gle

p

eside

t,

但实际上它是在几个国家的共同努力下完成的

while

actually

completed

u

de

seve

al

othe

s,

他们都站在了前人的肩膀上

all

while

sta

di

g

o

the

shoulde

s

of

othe

atio

s.

人类进步就要有超越时代的规模和野心

Huma

p

og

ess

equi

es

scale

a

d

ambitio

that

exceeds

ge

e

atio

s.

而不仅仅是在他们的时代

Not

just

te

ms

of

office.

这条运河以及随后的项目

This

a

d

late

p

ojects

we

e

built

是在许多跨大洲国家和人民的努力下完成的

by

ma

y

people

a

d

atio

s

wo

ki

g

togethe

ac

oss

co

ti

e

ts.

有时要花费几个世纪